Culture is the new strategy
Saint Laurent went to Cannes and Balenciaga made a playlist. Our first guest writer, Matteo Azzolini, explores why
This week, we’re pleased to welcome our first guest writer, Matteo Azzolini, a cultural insights expert & strategist, based between Milan and London, who writes at Why You Should Care. Subscribe to his newsletter below. Thank you for contributing, Matteo.
Cultural marketing is having a moment.
From film festivals to literary salons, brands are no longer content with simply sponsoring culture: they want to be culture. Especially in the luxury space, where the goal isn’t just selling a product, but signalling cultural capital, brands are increasingly investing in projects that embed them in the worlds of art, film, literature, and design.
But for every brand that gets it right, plenty miss the mark, engaging in what can only be described as “cultural cosplay.” The difference often lies in intention, execution, and most importantly, value: are these brands supporting culture, or just borrowing it?
Stories have always been more effective than product specs when it comes to selling. But today, these stories are increasingly culturally charged – and sometimes overly intellectualised.
Just a few years ago, Saint Laurent launched its own film production company. Since then, it’s presented work by Pedro Almodóvar in Cannes (see the poster, above) and won two awards for Emilia Pérez at the same festival in 2024.
Meanwhile, Prada, LVMH and Cartier have long invested in their own cultural foundations, working with architects like Rem Koolhaas (below), Frank Gehry, and Jean Nouvel to create spaces where the building is often as captivating as the art inside.
Miu Miu recently held the third edition of its Literary Club in Milan, a two-day event blending literature, culture and soft feminism, designed for the Miu Miu girls. Meanwhile, Balenciaga has launched exclusive merch with artists ranging from legendary singer Mina to pop culture icon Britney Spears.
But do these initiatives actually create value? Or are we watching brands edge dangerously close to over-intellectualised activations and merch drops?
The case for cultural marketing
There’s a reason brands keep doing this. Culture becomes capital.
French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu described cultural capital as the non-economic resources (education, taste, or artistic literacy) that contribute to status. Brands, especially luxury ones, want in. After all, a luxury item is a status symbol.
By aligning with high culture, brands signal that they’re not just selling fashion; they’re actively participating in the cultural conversation. Prada, through its role as a patron of contemporary art and architecture, positions itself beyond product. It’s no longer just a brand. It’s an institution.
And from a brand strategy perspective, there’s something else at play: mental availability. The more touchpoints a consumer has with a brand (especially ones that go beyond shopping) the more likely it is to stay top of mind. By embedding in culture, brands weave themselves into more parts of people’s lives.
They occupy mental space, not just shelf space.
The risk of culture washing
But not every cultural move lands. And the risk is culture washing: the empty performance of cultural alignment.
Much like greenwashing, culture-washing happens when brands borrow the aesthetics, language, or symbols of a cultural space without offering anything meaningful in return. It’s when a brand cosplays as a patron of the arts, but forgets to support artists. When it romanticises subcultures it’s never bothered to understand. Or when it names a playlist “curated” and calls it a campaign. These moments might look right on paper, but they fall apart on contact with a discerning audience.
And today’s audiences are quick to spot the gap between true participation and mere performance. And in culture, nothing kills credibility faster than looking like you don’t belong.
Cultural credibility vs. cultural proximity
Not all cultural plays are created equal. There’s a difference between hovering around culture and actually belonging in it.
Proximity is when a brand flirts with culture: it name-drops, sponsors something vague, maybe prints a logo on a tote bag at an art fair and calls it a day. Credibility, on the other hand, is earned. It’s when a brand contributes something meaningful, not just visual.
Saint Laurent producing films actually makes sense. The brand has deep cinematic roots: Yves designed costumes for the screen back in the ‘60s (see an archive sketch, below), Anthony Vaccarello’s vision has always been filmic, and Kering’s François-Henri Pinault has backed the industry since 2009. It’s a long-standing interest made visible, not a passing obsession.
Same with Prada and LVMH: their foundations didn’t pop up overnight. Miu Miu’s Literary Club feels aligned because the brand has always played with themes of intellect, identity, and feminism. It’s not just an activation, it fits the brand world they’ve already built.
Balenciaga dropping a collab with Britney Spears? Less clear. If there’s no logic between the brand’s values and the cultural space it’s entering, the audience will feel it; even if they can’t always articulate why.
Cultural credibility is slow to earn and easy to lose. Which is why brands can’t treat culture like a seasonal channel.
It’s not content. It’s context. And it requires care, commitment, and consistency.
The CULTURE checklist – Matteo’s take on cultural storytelling
A strategic gut-check for brand-led cultural initiatives. Because culture isn’t a buzzword - it’s a blueprint:
C: Credibility
Is this initiative rooted in something the brand can speak to authentically?
Do we have a cultural right to play here [insert cultural space]?
U: Utility
Does this offer real value to the cultural space, not just the brand?
Are we giving back (funding, access, opportunity) or just taking attention?
Would this exist without a press release?
L: Longevity
Is this built for long-term cultural relevance, or is it a one-off moment?
Are we committing to this conversation or are we looking to participate because it’s a trend?
Is there a long/medium-term roadmap beyond the launch?
T: Timing
Is this aligned with the current cultural climate, or is it chasing something already over?
Are we joining a conversation thoughtfully, or reacting late?
Does this feel considered or opportunistic?
U: Uniqueness
Is this distinctive, or could any brand have done it?
Does it reflect our brand world and values?
Is there a clear creative or conceptual point of view?
R: Resonance
Will this create meaningful (emotional or intellectual) connections with the audience we want to reach?
E: Execution
Are the details strong enough to carry the weight of the idea?
Are we collaborating with credible partners?
Does the creative live up to the concept?
Is the rollout thoughtful across all touchpoints?
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Such good examples